This is a bit of a different story than my ordinary photography stories. Instead of a chronicle of my adventures in a cool place (which we’ll still go over, trust me), this is a story of listening to your body and trusting yourself to make hard decisions. As you’ve read in the title and heading, spoiler alert, I was helicoptered out of my hike by calling Search and Rescue in Southern Utah after severe dehydration started to set in.

But let’s start at the beginning.

A Land With No Water

Who knows how long ago I saw a photo of Reflection Canyon at Lake Powell in Southern Utah. Like most of my bad ideas, seeing that photo made me want to go there myself and see it in person. I quickly learned that it was taken at a place called Reflection Canyon, a little offshoot of Lake Powell in Glen Canyon.

Alltrails had the hike in their system, like always — a 15-mile out-and-back trail to an absolutely incredible view. I’ve done 15 milers and more before, so this was no problem. Alltrails had rated the hike as “hard,” but who knows what that means. I’ve been on “hard” hikes no more than paved walks and “easy” hikes that took everything out of me and then some. Suffice it to say, I assumed this would be something well within my capabilities.

The hike out to Reflection Canyon was difficult. We went at the end of May to avoid the worst of the heat, but it was still blisteringly hot. More than that, the trail has 0 shade or cover. For 8 miles all you have is red dirt and sagebrush that comes up to your knee. And the full kicker – there is no water anywhere. Ironic, considering this is a hike to a massive lake.

So that means we have to carry our own water. Now I’ve done a lot of hiking in my time, even longer than 15 miles, but I’ve never packed my own water before. Having never done it, I was completely unprepared for how heavy water actually is. Do you know how much water weighs?? A kilo per liter. Or, for my American friends, more than 8 pounds per gallon. I brought 9 liters of water with me (almost 2.5 gallons), thinking that would be plenty. It wasn’t.

Day One – Reflection Canyon

After a 50-mile drive across the worst road in the United States, we arrived at the Reflection Canyon Trailhead. Not one to waste any time, we set out on our journey. At this point, I had drunk around 72oz already on the 6-hour drive to the trailhead. So with 2 liters in my system and 9 liters on my back, we started the 8-mile hike to our goal, and boy was it rough.

I’ve been on some distance trips before, but these 8 miles, carrying 9 kilos/20 lbs of water, have to be some of the most brutal I’ve ever attempted. We took a lot of breaks, tried (unsuccessfully) to not get too sunburned, and all around pushed our bodies to their limits. Six hours later, we were greeted with one of the most incredible views I’ve ever had the privilege of seeing. Reflection Canyon is, quite literally, breathtaking. We set up camp at the top of the hill overlooking the view we had been waiting for, and enjoyed a fine evening in an incredible place.

But behind the breathtaking view and relief of finally taking our packs off, was the knowledge that I drank 6.5 liters (almost two gallons) on the hike up to our view. That left me 2.5 liters for the trip back – less than half of what I had drunk on the trail. I was worried, but generally tried to put those problems in the back of my mind and enjoy the evening.

Horses Under the Stars

I’m having a bit of fun with these heading titles, I admit. Unfortunately, there were no regular horses this far into the hike. The horses I’m talking about are of the Charlie variety. Evidently, I hadn’t gotten the memo about muscle spasms, as I thought those spasms (called Charlie Horses where I’m from) were only caused by a lack of potassium or other vitamins – I had no idea Heat Cramps are the precursor to Heat Exhaustion. So even though I had drank almost 9 liters of water in the previous 12 hours, I had the worst Muscle Cramp of my life while staring at the gorgeous Milky Way Galaxy under an open, beautiful sky.

It was pure agony for a full 5 minutes, and nothing I did could stop it. No stretching, massaging, or anything. Just pure pain running the length of my calf. I could literally feel the ripples of the spasms like a creature crawling around my muscle. With no idea what was happening, I considered the possibility of dehydration but immediately rejected the idea. I had already drank 9 liters of water! How on Earth could I be dehydrated?

Day Two – A Promising Morning

Something I always take with me on my trips is my Zoleo Satellite Communicator. It’s a small, portable device that lets me share my location with my loved ones, text them, and most importantly, an SOS feature that contacts emergency services in the event that I need them.

You can probably see where this is going.

After a wonderful sunrise of taking photos and enjoying the morning, we reluctantly broke camp and got ready for the 8 miles back to the car. Mercifully, putting the backpack on was significantly easier than it had been the day before. I transferred what water I had left to my waist pack, and I was now 9 kilos lighter than when I started the day before. The relief was immediate, and carrying the pack was a breeze (relatively).

As we started hiking, I started to realize how much of a problem the water situation was. I was already thirsty and now trying to ration what little I had. The miles started to tick by, and I was feeling alright up to mile 4.

Halfway through our trip back, with around 10oz of water left, I started getting extremely tired. We took an extended break where I was able to use the bathroom for the first time in 24 hours. Not to overshare, but let’s say the color was somewhere between penny copper and fresh-snow-runoff river brown. It wasn’t a good color.

Immediately, all hopes of “maybe I drank too much water!” had been destroyed. Having drank basically 9 liters in 24 hours, I was still severely dehydrated. Knowing the effects of dehydration would only get worse, we pressed on. I made it another mile before feeling like I was about to vomit and pass out. Not wanting to faint on the trail and cause even more problems for myself, I stopped at a rock at mile 5, and called it.

My buddy that I was with (always hike with a buddy, people!) took my car keys and pressed on, the idea that he would get some of the water I had in my car and bring it back to me after dropping his pack off. But 10 minutes after he left, I knew I wouldn’t be able to last the 3 or 4 hours it would take him to return. Consulting with my family through the Satellite Communicator, at almost exactly noon, I pressed the SOS button.

Search and Rescue In Southern Utah

I was immediately connected with an Emergency Response Agent who made sure I wasn’t in any imminent danger, and we got to work with what my options were. They contacted Glen Canyon Park Rangers for me who were dispatched (shoutout Valerie, sorry you had to drive like 2 hours just to turn around), but they were at least 5 hours away.

Feeling all sorts of chagrined and embarrassed, at 1:30, I asked for a helicopter to be sent. How could this happen to me? I’m the one always reading about the people who need Search and Rescue and solemnly shaking my head at how foolish one could be. “Don’t they know how dangerous Southern Utah is?” “How could you go somewhere like that so unprepared?” Well, now I know.

Cooking in the sun for another hour, I was really starting to fade. At about 2:30, my mouth suddenly became very, very dry. At one point I yawned, causing another Heat Cramp in my jaw, which I didn’t know was possible. It was incredibly painful, if you’re wondering.

10 minutes after that, my Emergency Response Agent reassuring me, I heard the beating of helicopter blades out of the East.

Can I just say, helicopter pilots are cool. As I was sitting there amongst the hills and sagebrush, I thought briefly about moving to somewhere flatter. Half a mile away there was a flat patch of bare rock I assumed a helo could put down, but my attempt to stand up and put my bag back on threatened to send me into the ground. Lightheaded and dizzy, I sat back down and waited for the helicopter, figuring they’ll know best and will come to get me if they put down farther away.

As it turns out, directly on the other side of the hill I was on was a fairly open spot on a small slope. With ease and precision, the pilot put the helo down on the side of a sloped hill, open area be damned. It was hands down one of the coolest things I’ve ever seen. As they put down, one of the EMTs hopped out the back and made his way over to me.

His name is Karl, and he’s a beast. I also got to meet the other EMT, Mike, and the incredible pilot, Esther. They loaded me up with Gatorade and water, which I greedily sucked up. They made me sit on the bench step of the heli in the wonderful, wonderful shade created by the helicopter. I learned they had come all the way from Cortez, Colorado. An hour’s flight away, just to come to make sure my dumb self was ok. Doing the math I realized that when I called for a helicopter at 1:30, they had to have been in the air within 5 minutes. Now that’s some customer service.

A 180-second Conclusion

After twenty or so minutes in the wonderful shade with some incredible people, they loaded me and my gear up into the helicopter and started preflight checks. After that, spinning up the rotors. Between those two events, we sat for probably another 10 minutes getting ready. All this to say, we spent 180 seconds in the air. 180 seconds to go the three miles that I couldn’t go myself.

We touched down to a dozen or so cars and a bunch of curious onlookers. Miraculously, my buddy had just barely arrived back at the car himself, so my biggest worry about him going back for me was thankfully not a problem. I said my goodbyes to my new friends and we headed back home, a few lessons learned.

This hasn’t been a paid advertisement or anything, but a recommendation to absolutely and always bring a GPS Communicator with you – whatever the brand. I’m obviously a big Zoleo fan, but just make sure you have something out in the wilderness. I’ll never go anywhere in the backcountry without it again.

And that’s the unceremonious end to the story of the time I called search and rescue in Southern Utah. I’ll leave you with the reiteration of always bring a GPS Communicator with you into the backcountry. It quite literally saved my life, and it could save yours. I’ll also put some resources below to help you prepare for your next trip into the hot, unforgiving desert of Southern Utah.

As always, thanks for reading.

Resources

• Zoleo Satellite Communicator
• Staying Hydrated On A Trail
• How I Pack For Photography Backpacking

In any case, I love Banff and the Canadian Rockies. I haven’t been able to visit it as much as I’d like, but every time I go it is a whole new experience. I grew up under the shadow of the Rocky Mountains in Utah, and when I go to Banff I get a glimpse of what it is like for other people to visit Utah for the first time. Seeing enormous hunks of beautiful rock and granite never gets old, no matter where you are. So if you are visiting Banff and looking for some fun, beautiful, and simple hikes, here are the three (I think) best easy hikes in Banff National Park.

Moraine Lake Shoreline/Rockpile – The Best Easy Hike

People don’t believe me when I show them the photos. The truth is, I’ve actually turned the blueness of the water down in my photos because it didn’t even look real to me – and I took the picture! It really does look like that, I promise. This hike takes you first (or last) up on what they call The Rockpile, a big mound of dirt that gives you that classic view of Moraine Lake. As you can see in the photo above, sometimes the trees can get in the way of a perfectly clear view. Not generally a problem – I love trees. However, the next part of the hike takes you down to the shoreline and along the west edge of the lake. It’s an easy, paved nature walk alongside the weirdest water you’ve ever seen.

One thing to note about this hike: it’s busy. The last time I was in Banff I was able to drive right into the parking lot. We got there at 5:30am and the parking lot was already basically full. During the peak season (and maybe all the time now?), the parking lot is closed and you need to take a bus up to the lake. Whatever you have to do – it’s worth seeing the majesty of this lake and the mountains in the background at least once. Don’t miss out!

Johnston Canyon – A Capsule of Banff National Park

There isn’t much more to say about this fantastic place, except that it has a 10/10 recommendation from me. The multiple waterfalls, beautiful trail, lovely scenery… it’s just great. Definitely go if you’re in Banff!

Hector Lake – The Best Easy(ish) Hike In Banff National Park

If you read through all that above and say, “I’m ready!” Prepare yourself for adventure. You’ll literally be walking over tree roots, wading through deep mud, and finally, fording a river. If you’re in Banff in the Spring or early Summer, this hike may not be possible. If the water is high do not attempt this hike. I don’t want to get an angry email from someone’s loved one who got swept away by my recommendation. You have to cross a river which is dangerous by definition. If you aren’t sure if it’s passable, head to the ranger station by Lake Louise and they’ll be able to tell you. Unfortunately, I’ve never attempted the hike in Spring, only in late Summer, so I can’t give you better information than that.

But with all those caveats, if you’re still good to go, you’re in for a treat. The water is just as blue as Lake Louise. The hike up to the lake takes you through incredible forests and gorgeous meadows. It is literally like walking through a fairy tale. Tolkien’s Middle Earth in the physical world (and easier to get to than New Zealand). And once you arrive at the lake – the picture does not do it justice. Those mountains behind the lake are enormous. Just behind them is the Columbia Ice Field – the continental divide, where rivers diverge to eventually end in either the Pacific or the Atlantic.

It feels like untouched wilderness, even though it may not be. It is rugged and powerful. Hector Lake is quite literally my favorite hike in Banff National Park, and you absolutely can’t miss this one while you’re there.

Conclusion

Banff National Park is one of the most incredible places on this Earth, and I encourage anyone thinking about going to go. You will not regret it. If you need even more proof besides the images in this article, check out this secret link to the pictures I took the first time I was in Banff and Jasper.

Thanks for reading.

One of the most freeing things you can do as an outdoor travel and adventure photographer is backpacking. With just whatever you can carry on your back and what you can use on the trail (leave no trace!), backpacking is as close as we get these days to be one with nature. From short overnight hikes at your local trails to 5-month journeys through the Pacific Crest or Appalachian Trail, there is a way to backpack for everyone. For us photographers, however, we have to consider another aspect – getting our gear in and out of these remote places. Here’s a quick guide on how I pack for photography backpacking when it’s just me, nature, and my camera.

What I’m Wearing

The first thing to consider when you’re going backpacking is what clothes you’re going to bring. From our cushy lives living in a house with unlimited access to a shower, it can feel daunting to not bring the comforts you are used to. One thing you have to accept when you start backpacking: You’re going to smell bad. That’s just a fact, and the sooner you accept it the better your experience will be. So when I tell you we aren’t bringing an outfit per day, don’t faint. Because we aren’t. Here’s what I bring for 6 days on a backpacking trail.

14 individual items! 13 if you don’t include the hat (I usually don’t). For some people, this seems like nothing. For experienced backpackers, this is WAY too much. Three whole pairs of underwear? I prefer to feel like I’m at least sort of clean every couple days, and they are light enough to not make a difference to me. Let’s go through everything individually!

Hiking Pants

There are a lot of pants out there to choose from. Zipper, Cargo, rip away, etc. The most important thing is that they’re comfortable and cool. I don’t wear shorts while out on the trail because I sweat all the sunscreen off and then have to deal with a horrible sunburn for the rest of the trip. To make it easier, I just wear cooling long pants. That’s also the same reason I use a long sleeve hoodie, but we’ll get to that in a bit. Long pants also avoid cuts and scrapes when you trip and fall, or if you have to bushwhack. So many problems solved!

Hiking Hoodie

I have the Patagonia Capilene Hoodie from REI, and I love it, but from what I’ve seen any hoodie will do as long as you like it. It’s very lightweight, as well as long for my long torso. The hoodie part protects the back of my neck, and the long sleeve protects my arms up to my wrist (I’ve seen some hoodies that even have finger holes to protect your hands). This way, I only need sunscreen on my hands and my face/neck. Saves sunscreen, saves me from pain, it’s all around perfect.

Trail Runners

My preferred shoewear when I’m backpacking are trail runners. Specifically my Altra Lone Peak Trail Runners. I’m on my third pair of these shoes now (they last a while, I swear, I just wear them really really often), and I couldn’t recommend them enough. They are “Zero Drop” shoes, which has to do with where your toes sit in relation to your heel. It’s different than most shoes you buy, and chances are you haven’t ever used a zero drop shoe. If not, I recommend trying these on before you buy them, because some people hate zero drop with a passion. 

Merino Wool Socks

So I swear by Darn Tough Socks. They aren’t paying me to say this, they are just my favorite sock in the world and literally the only brand of sock I own. They have a steep price per pair – $15-25. I understand that’s expensive, but with their lifetime warranty (when they rip you send them in and they send you a new pair), I’ll never buy socks again if I don’t want to, considering I have ~20 pairs. If these are too expensive, what you are looking for is Merino Wool. They don’t hold odor nearly as bad as other socks, they’re wool so they’ll keep you warm at night, Merino is just the absolute best. Don’t skimp on socks. Backpacking with blisters might be among the worst thing you can experience.

Saxx Underwear

Okay, so you’re probably seeing the theme of ~expensive~ now. Unfortunately in backpacking, you can pick two options between good quality, cheap, and lightweight. I beg of you to choose good quality and lightweight. You don’t want anything ripping or breaking or chafing, and you don’t want it to be heavy. Unfortunately, that means stuff isn’t cheap. If you have a preferred underwear that protects your inner thigh and is comfortable and sweat-wicking, use them. If you need recommendations, Saxx is my favorite.

Cotopaxi Fuego Down Jacket

Down Jackets are optional only if you aren’t going anywhere cold. Chances are you ARE going somewhere cold – it is pretty much always cold at 3 in the morning, regardless of where you are in the world. If you only need to stay warm while sleeping, just get your favorite lightweight hoodie and skip this guy. If there’s any chance of it being under 15 degrees Celsius (60 Fahrenheit) while you aren’t curled up in your sleeping bag, you’re going to want a down jacket, and my Cotopaxi Fuego is my favorite.

Rain Jacket Shell

You can get actual rain jackets that are expensive and bulky, but I prefer a shell. They run big and slip on over whatever you’re wearing to keep you dry. Super lightweight and not terribly expensive. The only thing worse than hiking in the rain is being wet while you’re doing it.

Sun Hat

If you go the hoodie route like I do, I don’t bring a brimmed sun hat. Instead I’ll pick a small, easily packable baseball cap. If you don’t go the hoodie route, though, you need a hat. Don’t take the risk of cancer lightly, melanoma is no joke. Plus, hiking with a second degree sunburn is actual hell on Earth. You’ll notice just how much your shirt collar touches your neck – but only after it’s too late. Take your health seriously!

There are a lot of options out there for a variety of clothes! The main things you want to look for are lightweight, good quality, and comfortable. There’s a reason we don’t backpack all the time anymore like our nomad ancestors, you have to work extra hard to keep yourself comfortable and not in constant pain. Backpacking is incredibly rewarding if you take the steps to keep yourself safe and comfortable!

My Backpacking Gear

The next step is what you’re camping with! Photography backpacking is two fold: photography, and backpacking! So let’s talk about what gear I’m using for a standard 6 day backpacking trip.

Travel Backpack

Go to your outdoor store and get fitted. It matters.

Backpacking Tent

This one is expensive, you mostly want lightweight.

Sleeping Bag

I have an Elite 0, just make sure you like it (and fit).

Sleeping Pad

Comfortable and small, this is what I swear by.

Sleeping Pillow

Don’t use a hoodie. Your neck will thank you.

Camp Stove

The Pocket Rocket 2 is my go to and hasn’t failed yet.

Camp Cookset

This one is a tad big, you just need one that works.

Water Filter

Water is very important, don’t skimp on it.

Alright, so there is a lot more to supplies than these 8 things, but these are the 8 most important. Let’s talk about them individually, and then I’ll give you a list of what we missed.

Travel Backpack

There are a lot of backpacks, and unfortunately it does matter which one you pick. I use the Osprey Farpoint 70L, but each one is a little bit distinct and fits everyone just a little bit different. The best option to get one that fits is to go to your local outdoor store like REI and have an expert help you get fitted into a specific pack. You want the weight on your hips and the whole thing touching your back, otherwise you’re going to be miserable while you’re hiking. 

Backpacking Tent

I personally use the REI Half Dome 2. It’s way too big and heavy for backpacking, and by the time you’re reading this I’ll probably have upgraded. It goes on the outside of my pack with it’s compression sack and poles because of how large it is, but a lot of my backpacking friends have tents that fit inside their packs. Shop in person and have them show you how to assemble it!

Sleeping Bag

I use the Marmot Trestles Elite Eco 0. It’s lightweight but very big, so it goes on the outside of my pack with the tent. You can find smaller backpacking-specific bags that fit inside your pack if you’d prefer. If you’re tall, like me, try them out. My Marmot is pretty much at the very limit of what fits me, and when it’s really cold I have to get into a sort of fetal position so that I can be fully under the cloth. 

Sleeping Pad

The Nemo Tensor is my favorite piece that I own. It’s expensive but oh so worth it. Something I often tell people is that I sleep better while camping than I do in my own bed. It’s true, and I attribute a lot of that to this pad. It’s inflatable and inflates really quickly, and it is very very warm.

Sleeping Pillow

I used a hoodie as a pillow for a long time. I finally bit the bullet and got a sleeping pillow, specifically the Nemo Fillo Elite, which is padded (so it’s a little big), but also inflatable so it packs down decently small. Pack it last and shove it in their, you won’t regret bringing it. Save a neck, save a life.

Camping Stove

There are few luxuries while you’re backpacking, but one is a hot meal at the end of the day. Cold oatmeal for breakfast, Summer sausage for lunch, treat yourself to something good for dinner. We’ll talk about food later in this article, but a camp stove like the MSR Pocket Rocket 2 and the isopro cans are lightweight enough that you should absolutely bring it.

Camping Pot/Cookset

All you need is a metal pot that can heat up water. Later in this section I’ll recommend my favorite spoon though. Why a spoon? I don’t know, why so many questions?!

Sawyer Water Filtration System

I use the Sawyer Systems Water Filter, and I really love it. It’s easy to use and hasn’t failed me yet. If you aren’t backpacking near water sources, you’ll have to pack your own, which is hell. A lot easier to filter what you need as you go.

Alright, so that’s the 8 major things, but there are a lot of other things I bring with me. Here’s what I use:

• Osprey Talon 6 Waist Pack – I like having a waist pack for easy access to water, camera gear, snacks, etc.
• Lightweight HydroFlask – I spend the extra money because it really is that much lighter. Keeps water cold!
• Iodine Tablets – If my Sawyer were to ever fail, I still need water. These are the backup for peace of mind.
• Aeropress Go – Coffee is definitely a luxury while on the trail, but I like to indulge myself.
• Long Handle Spoon – Listen, I get that being this excited about a spoon is weird. Just try it, you’ll understand.
• Camp Towel – In case you get wet, take a bath, need to clean something, etc. It weighs nothing. 

Food

Really quickly, let’s talk about food. I say quickly because I am really simple when it comes to food: freeze-dried meals. My preferred brand is Peak Refuel, but Alpine Aire, Backpacker’s Pantry, and Mountain House are all fine. As we’ve discussed, weight is the number one enemy while backpacking. With freeze-dried meals, you aren’t carrying any extra water weight. Remember to bring snacks like trail mix or granola bars, you don’t want to have to pull out your stove whenever you get hungry.

Technology

We aren’t quite to camera gear yet, but here is some tech that I always bring with me.

Satellite Device

What would you pay for peace of mind? It’s worth it.

Portable Charger

Gotta keep stuff charged. Don’t bring it on a plane.

Earbuds

I love AirPods. Sometimes you need to tune out.

Smartphone

Something to connect to the earbuds and satellite.

Zoleo Satellite Communicator

This is a GPS tracker, a messenger, and an SOS device all in one. It gives me peace of mind knowing help is quick a button press away if I need it, and it gives my loved ones peace of mind being able to see exactly where I am in the backcountry whenever they want. It’s $20-30/month, but you can cancel it whenever you don’t need it.

Anker Portable Charger

20000mAh is plenty for whatever you’re doing. It’s plenty enough to make airline security nervous, too. It’s fairly lightweight and it’ll last as long as I need it. I prefer Anker as my trusted brand.

AirPods Pro

I’m an Apple user, so AirPods Pro are my favorite earbuds to use. Any will work. Sometimes you just need to put some earbuds in and tune out the world with some music or audiobooks. Don’t let people give you a hard time for it, do what gives you the best experience while you’re out there.

iPhone 14 Pro

This is most likely outdated like a lot of this article (I’ll try to remember to update it!), but at the moment I’m using an iPhone 14 Pro as my device of choice to connect to my AirPods Pro, my Zoleo, and watch movies or shows at night while I’m trying to sleep.

Photography Backpacking Camera Gear

The moment you’ve all been waiting for! This section will vary a lot depending on what you’re specifically going photography backpacking for. You’re going to have different lenses and bodies depending on landscape or wildlife, just to give one example. For this, I’ll give an extremely general idea of what I’d take, keeping in mind weight is the enemy.

Camera Body

Mirrorless over DSLR just for weight reasons.

General Lens

I use a 24-70 2.8 as the lens that stays on the camera.

TelePhoto Lens

I love wildlife photography, so I need the reach.

Backpack Insert

The enemy here is size. Big enough and small enough.

SD Cards

I use SanDisk Extreme Pro, and I use a lot of them.

Camera Batteries

One battery per day plus an extra, just in case.

Capture Clip

Always have your camera right at hand with this guy.

L-Bracket

This one is compatible with the Capture Clip.

Sturdy TriPod

I use MeFOTO and Three Legged Thing, both great.

ND Filter Set

Very expensive, but a must have for long exposures.

Directional Mic

If you do anything with video you need good audio.

Cleaning Kit

Your camera will get dusty and dirty and so will photos.

Camera Body

So currently I’m using a Canon 5D Mark IV, and it is heavy and bulky. I would recommend a mirrorless, like the R5, for the weight saving. Every little bit helps here. If you’re planning on doing wildlife photography more than landscape, you could even use an APS-C camera like the R7 or any FujiFilm camera for that extra reach.

General Lens

My 24-70 is my most used, favorite lens I own. It’s incredible versatile and can do just about anything. Landscape, some wildlife, astrophotography, portraits, etc. If you only bring one, it should be this guy.

TelePhoto Lens

So when it comes to TelePhoto, the options are either a 70-200 or something even bigger. For me, I want something bigger. If you have an APS-C body, you can definitely do a 70-200, as the crop factor turns it into a 320mm equivalent. If you don’t plan on doing wildlife photography, leave this one at home.

Backpack Insert

The biggest problem with an insert is size. Often they’ll be way too big and won’t leave any room for the other stuff you have to carry with you. In this goes everything except the Camera Body, 24-70, and TriPod.

SD Cards

I don’t dump footage or photos while I’m backpacking, so I need a lot of SD Cards. The last thing you want is to start having to ration your storage and miss out on great photos. Get a waterproof carrying case like this one to store them in.

Camera Batteries

I use about a battery per day, sometimes a tad more. That’s a battery every 12 hours, so if you’re doing night shoots, double that number. I go with the name-brand, always. The other ones don’t last nearly as long, and you’ll end up spending more.

Capture Clip

This little thing goes onto your backpack strap and lets you connect your camera body to it. You’ll never miss a shot trying to hurriedly get your camera out ever again, plus it saves room in your pack.

L Bracket

I swear by L-brackets, and the one linked above by three legged thing is my favorite. It’s basically attached to my camera always now, just a part of the body.

Sturdy Tripod

Don’t skimp on a Tripod. Get a carbon fiber for the weight savings, and spend a little bit to avoid the shakiness that a bad tripod will induce.

ND Filter Set

This might be the most surprising thing if you are just getting into photography. A 100mm ND Filter set will change your photography forever. I love my ND Filter set and would never, ever go on a shoot without them. For savings, you can get a circular ND filter that attaches to your lens, it may or may not be good.

Directional Microphone

If you’re doing video, audio is 50% of your short film. Spend as much time and money on your audio as you do on your video, and you’ll be successful. 

Camera Cleaning Kit

The backcountry is not a studio, and your camera will get gross. You don’t need the whole kit, but bring the blower, and a few wipes. Keep your gear clean and it will make your life way easier.

Conclusion

There is so much to photography backpacking. This is a small list of the things I most commonly bring with me when I’m out on the trail. Unfortunately, all of this is expensive, and there is no way around that. If you are willing to spend the money, your back and sanity will thank you afterward. If you don’t, you’ll go on exactly 1 trip before you come back and realize I was right. How do I know this? I did the same thing. I’ve slowly upgraded my kit to be something I can rely on, and it took way more money than if I would have just spent the money originally. Live and learn, eh? If you have photography backpacking experiences, let me know in the comments below! I’d love to hear from you.

As always, thanks for reading.

Brax

The Biggest Small City In The World

With only a quarter million people in Reykjavik, it one of the smallest Capital Cities in the world. But despite it’s small size and population, Reykjavik punches far above it’s weight in culture, character, and style. Regardless of your interests, there is always something to do and something cool to see in this wonderful city.

So let’s say you’ve found yourself in Reykjavik with 12 hours to burn – one full day in the Smokey Bay (literally, rekyt-vik) city. We’re going to go through this article like you’ve arrived in the morning – 9am – and are leaving in the evening – 9pm. I hope you’re ready, because this might be the most packed 12 hours you’ve ever experienced. There is just too much to do and see in Reykjavik, and we unfortunately just can’t see it all. These are my picks for how you should spend your one day in Reykjavik.

Morning (9am-1pm)

You’ve just stepped off the bus at Reykjavik’s main bus terminal, and we’re off to the races. The first place we’re going is Reykjavik Roasters, a short 15 minute walk (or quicker scooter ride) to the Northeast.

Reykjavik Roasters

I consider myself a coffee aficionado. I didn’t drink coffee until I was 25 years old, and because of that, bad coffee is no bueno. Gas station, mediocre, burned coffee is not something I even want to smell, much less ingest. So when I tell you that Reykjavik Roasters has some of the best coffee I’ve ever had, I’m not exaggerating. Head here first for a complex, tasty, wonderful cup and get some necessary fuel for the rest of the day – you’ll need it!

Braud & Co

Next, we need some food. Right across the street from Reykjavik Roasters is Braud & Co, a local Icelandic bakery with the best bread you’ll find in the country. Head there and grab a croissant, Cinnamon Roll, or even a full loaf of Sourdough – it is to die for.

If you’re feeling like we’re being a bit light on food so far, that’s on purpose. Reykjavik has an incredible amount of culture and heart, and that absolutely includes the food. To get through this day without your stomach exploding, we’re going to need to pace ourselves. But if you’re patient, I promise it’s worth it.

Now full of coffee and freshly baked bread, it’s time to see some of the sights. Next, we’re headed to Hallgrímskirkja.

Hallgrímskirkja

You’ve probably already seen this wonderful building, whether from the window of your bus, or on your way to Reykjavik Roasters. It’s sort of hard to miss, and walking out of Braud & Co, you’re almost certainly looking right at it.

Hallgrímskirkja is Reykjavik’s (and Iceland’s) tallest building. Set at the top of the tallest hill in the general area, this old Norse & Christian church is a force and a landmark. And unless you’re there on a Sunday, it’s open for a tour! Spend some time admiring the outside and inside of this incredible building, read the history, take a tour, etc!

Skólavörðustígur Street

Following the direction that Hallgrímskirkja is pointing takes you to Skólavörðustígur street, one of my favorite places in the city. For the next hour or two, take your time strolling up and down this little road. Go window shopping (and real shopping) at Penninn Eymundsson bookshop, check out the Magic Ice Reykjavik ice sculptures, and give in to your inner child by taking a walk down the Rainbow Road. There are dozens of shops, galleries, and museums to visit on this wonderful little stretch of Iceland!

Afternoon (1pm-5pm)

Snaps Bistro

For lunch, my recommendation is Snaps Bistro. It’s a little upscale and generally to get a table you’ll need to book in advance (but usually you’ll be able to get a spot at the bar with a little wait), but this is my favorite restaurant in Reykjavik. If you’re not feeling something so fancy or you’re in Reykjavik on a Monday, Tuesday, or Wednesday (they don’t open until 4pm those three days), feel free to pick any other place to eat along Skólavörðustígur street! You almost certainly can’t go wrong. If it sounds good, it’ll taste good! If you do end up at Snaps, however, I wholeheartedly recommend the Croque Madame.

The National Museum of Iceland

A 15 minute walk west takes you to The National Museum of Iceland. Of all of the fantastic museums in Reykjavik, this is probably (it’s so hard to pick!) my favorite. If you are at all interested in history, this is the museum for you. It chronicles the old Norse Vikings from modern day Norway and Denmark making their first landing in Iceland, to the introduction of Christianity and it’s culture-forming effects, to modern Iceland and the revolutionizing of tourism.

This wonderful museum is packed with interesting anecdotes, fascinating stories and films, and an incredible amount of artifacts from each age of Iceland’s history. It is absolutely a must visit place while you’re in Reykjavik.

Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur

I hope you didn’t each too much lunch (or you’ve sufficiently digested), because next we’re headed to Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur to get one (or a few) of Iceland’s famous hot dogs. I can hear you through the screen already, “Hot dogs? Really, Brax??” Yes, hot dogs. But these, dear reader, are no ordinary hot dogs. Like most meat in Iceland, these are lamb based, and you have to try them. From Bill Clinton to Kim Kardashian to John Green, it is a time honored tradition to get a Bæjarins hot dog while you’re in Reykjavik.

Kolaportið Bazaar or The Penis Museum

A short walk away is a wonderful flea market/bazaar with a whole bunch of independent sellers offering some seriously amazing stuff. You could spend 10 minutes or 5 hours here, completely your choice, but it’s definitely somewhere to take a peek in before we continue! Alternatively, you can head over to the infamous The Icelandic Phallological Museum (yes, it’s literally a Penis Museum) for some actually interesting biology lessons from basically every animal around the world! If you can stop giggling, that is.

Aurora Reykjavik

Whatever you choose, from there you’ll head to what I believe will be the most transformative experience of your entire day. Aurora Reykjavik is a small building on the northeast point of the city offering exhibits, art, a theater, and even guided tours to see Aurora Borealis – The Northern Lights. If you only have the one day, you won’t have time for a guided tour, but you need, if you do nothing else, to go see the Northern Lights movie and experience the Aurora in VR. I firmly believe everyone needs to see the Aurora at least once in their life, but in the meantime this is a good alternative.

Evening (5pm-9pm)

Harpa and The Sun Voyager

Depending on the time of year you’re in Reykjavik, your next stop will be watching sunset at The Sun Voyager. This won’t take long, but it’s a beautiful sculpture on the north coast of Reykjavik and worth visiting. From there, it’s a short walk back to Harpa, the concert hall you passed on your way. If you’re lucky enough to be there during a concert or movie (and it’s not sold out!), definitely head inside and catch a performance. If not, this wonderful feat of architecture is worth experiencing even on the outside.

Dinner Options

If you’re looking for dinner, The Ox Restaurant inside Sumac is consistently ranked at the top of places you should go. Unfortunately, it’s expensive, dressy, and you absolutely have to have a reservation. I mention it here because if there’s even a slim chance you can get in, do it. It’s 100% worth it.

Alternatively, there are some less-dressy (and cheaper) options to choose from. Here are my recommendations!

• SKÁL, a characterful restaurant inside Reykjavik’s first Food Hall that boasts fantastic dishes and even better beer.
• Matur og Drykkur, where you can get a whole Cod head and some in house mead. Great for authentic Icelandic food.
• Old Iceland, a family run restaurant that is much more laid back, using local Icelandic produce for their authentic dishes.

If all else fails, head to Hlemmur or Grandi food hall (Mathöll) and try out a bit of everything! Inspired by European food markets, a handful of food vendors offer a sample of what they can do!

Rúntur at Laugavegur

If it’s not too early, your final stop of the night will be a rúntur (or Pub Crawl) on Laugavegur, Reykjavik’s Main Street. Visit Lebowski, Kaffibarinn, Kaldi, or even Pablo Discobar for a great end to a busy day. If you’re going to spend your night pub crawling and trying out all the amazing drinks Reykjavik has to offer, I’d recommend downloading Appy Hour, available for both Apple or Android. It’s a nifty little app that shows you where and when happy hour starts for each pub and bar, potentially saving you some money.

Conclusion and Honorable Mentions

There is so much to do and see in Reykjavik. We didn’t even get to cover half of what I would recommend to you, and not even 10% of what you could do while you’re here. If you read through the above list and are looking for some more options, here are my honorable mentions.

• Perlan, a futuristic revolving glass dome with a restaurant and cocktail bar. Also very pretty to walk around.
• Laugardalslaug Pool, a public geothermal bath and swimming pool.
• Saga Museum, a museum full of lifelike figures that depict Iceland’s history. You can also wear Viking costumes!
• Hafnarhús Art Museum, a museum almost exclusively about Erró, one of the most prolific contemporary artists to ever live.

Wherever you decide to go and whatever you decide to do, Reykjavik offers a litany of things to do and places to see. You can’t go wrong, wherever you end up. Reykjavik is one of my favorite cities I’ve ever been to and I just can’t wait to go back. If you have suggestions for things I missed or comments on places you’ve been, leave them below! I would love to hear from you. In any case, I hope you have an incredible experience however you spend one day in Reykjavik, Iceland.

As always, thanks for reading.

Brax

The first thing I noticed was the lack of trees. Growing up at the base of the rocky mountains, I had grown accustomed to the sight of Pine, Fir, and Aspens surrounding me. But as the plane that had been my home for the last six hours started to descend and the island came into view, mossy rock stretched out to the horizon dotted by groups of beautiful purple flowers. I was prepared for a lot of firsts during this trip. First time camping in a new country, first time out of the country since the pandemic, first time joining fellow photographers on a tour of somewhere new. I wasn’t prepared for something so… alien. Where were all the trees?

I flew on what most people, including me, would consider a “red-eye,” taking off from Minneapolis just before 9:00pm. I can’t sleep on planes, never have. Instead, the black sky of the New England, Canadian, and eventually Pacific night was my companion. Except it was only three-ish hours into the flight, somewhere over the Pacific near Greenland, when my eyes adjusted to an orange glow far off on the horizon.

As we progressed, Greenland came into view. The beautiful Ice floes and glaciers gently floating near the shore – and the endless white landscape of one of the most rugged places on Earth. Eventually, it was too bright to keep the window open. Reykjavik time, it was five in the morning, but Minneapolis time, it was just after midnight. Where we were, it was probably somewhere squarely between 2 and 3am. So what was the sun doing getting up so early? We were just under the arctic circle at that point, the invisible line that signifies where, if you’re above it, the sun does not set. It was June 14, seven days before the summer equinox. It was also the last time I saw natural darkness for a full two weeks.

A bus driver named thor

Something that is incredibly easy to miss on your first trip to Iceland is some key info about Keflavik International Airport. It’s 45 minutes away from Reykjavik, the Capital and almost certainly where you want to be. There’s nothing quite like pulling up the address to your hotel while you’re tired and in a country whose language you don’t speak – and seeing an ETA almost an hour away. For all the stress of that, though, you quickly learn one of Iceland’s defining and terribly underrated features: just how friendly the people are.

Iceland’s economy is built on tourism, and everyone in the tourism and travel industry you talk to is just absolutely elated to have you there. Even as you get into the northern and eastern part of the country where these tiny little villages with hardly any people live and work, they’re still just so happy to chat.

My bus driver’s name, appropriately, was Thor. A large, blonde, bearded Icelandic man whose voice combined Icelandic, New England, South African, and Kenyan accents, making up the bulk of where he said he had grown up. From climbing mountains in Africa, a cross-country motorcycle road trip mainly through the American Southwest, and his robust collection of vintage guitars, he had moved back to Iceland at the start of the pandemic to be with his aging family. Thor had joined the tourism industry out of necessity, and fallen in love – a story most travelers can relate to in one aspect or another.

A better introduction to Iceland you could not have, and we chatted about photography, travel, music, and anything else on our journey to Iceland’s Capital. Thor dropped me off on the literal doorstep of my hotel before speeding off, no doubt to show more tourists how incredible his people and this country are.

At this point I had been awake for damn near 30 hours, but it was 9 in the morning. Don’t get me wrong, I was exhausted, but I wasn’t looking forward to the groveling I was about to have to do for an early check in. Mercifully, the two women working the front desk were equally as elated to have an American not put up a fight about being put in a room nearest the hotel’s new construction, as I was to be given an early check-in for no extra cost, despite my willingness to pay for the extra service. I walked into my home for the next two days, dropped my bags, took a quick shower, drew the black out curtains shut, and was almost certainly unconscious before I hit the pillow.

reykjavik, iceland

I am not a napper. Never have been. For me, napping involves waking up in a daze with a splitting headache, no idea what day or frankly even year you’ve ended up in, thirsty as all hell. Waking up in the middle of the afternoon (I think it was the afternoon) after 4 or 5 hours of sleep was decidedly not refreshing. Nevertheless, Delta’s three bites of curry and fruit 12 hours before had left the building and hunger was a more pressing issue than the grogginess I felt.

A hazy wakefulness and 20 minutes later I found myself in a Nettó, a 24 hour semi-convenience semi-grocery store and my first foray into Icelandic chocolate and $10 fresh produce. Generally I struggle to eat somewhat healthily when I travel of my own accord, but it appeared Iceland was also going to be the land of carbs, at least for me. I’d slowly refine my taste from random assorted wafers and chips to one of the three types of sandwiches they offer as the trip went on, but I walked back to the hotel flush with the macros I’d need for at least 12 hours. An hours walk was herculean to my tortured circadian rhythm, and I was back asleep before the clock struck 6. My first day in Iceland came to a close with me sleeping for the majority of it.

The Westfjords

We didn’t spend nearly enough time in Reykjavik to really appreciate it, but I think I could safely say that about the entire country and the entire trip. One place I know for certain I didn’t experience enough, despite three full days exploring the literal cracks in the landscape, were Iceland’s mighty Westfjords. Situated in the northwest part of the Island and basically cut off from the entire country, you would do well to take all your necessities with you. Things like fresh vegetables and fruits go for insane prices, even compared to Reykjavik.

There are very few places I’ve been in my travels more remote, or more beautiful.

I was with 11 other photographers exploring this amazing place, and our first bonafide photo location was Látrabjarg, the westernmost point in Iceland. Here, day and night mean little. Extraordinarily close to the Arctic Circle, the Sun setting was a brief goodbye, and it’s brilliance never really went away, sliding along the horizon until “sunrise,” some 90 minutes later. At Látrabjarg we also got our first taste of Puffins, adorable little migratory seabirds nesting on the cliffs overlooking the ocean. I’ll let the photos tell the rest of the story.

Our time at one of the most picturesque places I’ve ever been to came to an end, but the Westfjords hide some incredible secrets. Everywhere there are little nooks, crevices, and off-the-beaten-path places you can find. Some of the most incredible sights you’ve ever seen, and one that blows the previous out of the water just down the road. It’s a sensory experience, and honestly somewhat overwhelming. Rugged and remote, they’re underrated and ready for exploration.

The Horse and the girl

After leaving the Westfjords, we set up camp near a little village named Varmahlíð. I’ve had my REI Half Dome 2 Tent for many, many years, which meant I set up well before everyone else in the group. This time, I took a little stroll through the camp area, eventually finding my way outside of a horse pasture, where half a dozen beautiful and very pregnant mares (and a few foals!) were grazing. We were well into golden hour, but considering at this time of year golden hour lasts half the day, the light was always beautiful. I spent some time scratching the horses that came up to me, trying to convince the foals to get close, and just enjoying the moment of quiet after a few very busy days.

I’m not sure which deity blessed me with such perfect conditions, but I was grateful. After a time enjoying the scenery and not-so-wild-life, a young girl and her father joined me. The pure joy of connection with her new friends was tangible, and all three of us were brighter because of it. I was lucky enough to get evidence for an evening that I’ll never forget, something I don’t often have, and what resulted is one of my favorite photos I’ve ever taken.

fosslaug

After our fairytail experience with the horses and fey-touched Nordic girls, we spent the rest of our wonderful evening at Fosslaug, a mighty and extraordinarily underrated waterfall near Varmahlíð. At the outset, there is really only one place to photograph it from, despite our photographer desires to shoot from a different angle to be unique. We arrived just in time for sunset, before the sun slid behind the incoming clouds, and you might recognize the photo from the homepage of this very blog!

As the clock struck midnight, I was also fortunate enough to have cell service (it’s actually really good in Iceland, surprisingly) and called my Dad to wish him a happy American Father’s Day. It’s certainly one of the more picturesque places I’ve ever Facetimed from, I’ll tell you that.

While we waited for sunrise, my curiosity and desire for a different angle got the better of me, and before I knew it I was up on an outcropping, 10 or 15 meters above the river and the roar of the falls, trying to decide if jumping the last two meters down was worth it. In the end my better judgement won out. Just barely missing the jump or slipping after I landed would spell a 10 meter tumble into the rocks and white water below, and the only thought more horrifying than my untimely demise was the potential for a water-logged camera.

In the end, I opted to follow in my friend’s footsteps and slid along a steep section of hill for a gorgeous view downriver. Perhaps it was the fact I just considered jumping to my doom minutes before, but sliding along the hill, praying for the dirt to not give way (despite my guide knocking some rocks from under him and almost falling moments before) seemed like a much better decision. The result is the first photo in the gallery below (also featuring the outcropping I decided to not jump down to).

Dettifoss and the breakdown

The day after Fosslaug, we arrived to our only hotel of the trip, a converted boarding school in, quite literally, the middle of nowhere. Skúlagarður Hotel is an hour off of the Ring Road (the main highway in Iceland), and a 30 minute drive from the nearest amenities and services in Húsavík. It was almost certainly the fact we hadn’t showered in almost a week and had all but forgotten what hotels were like, but it was a 5 star oasis in the desert.

We were treated to a Michelin Star meal of Mashed Potatoes, Lamb, and a Rosemary Lamb Sauce that would make Gordon Ramsay shake in his boots. Not seeing the inside of a bedroom for a week also had all 12 of us charging our depleted batteries at the same time. I hope we didn’t cause too much of an increase in their electric bill, although I’m certain you’d be able to plot our arrival and departure on a graph.

Never the type to let time go to waste, after dinner we struck out for Dettifoss, one of the most powerful waterfalls in all of Europe. For this trip we chose to approach from the east, the rocky, rugged, less-developed side with, in my opinion, better views of the the mighty falls. Despite parking half a kilometer away and uphill, you could hear and feel what you were walking up to. The mist caused by the mass of water had nowhere to go in it’s tiny canyon, and it shot up and out well over twice the size of the falls themselves, drenching our excited selves as we approached.

Never have I been witness to so much power, it was awe-inspiring. Standing so close to the falls you could see the bottom of the canyon it had carved, you could feel in your bones the strength of the water before you. I hope I was able to capture it in some small way, but the experience of what I felt will stay with me forever.

With such an incredible evening so far under our belt, Murphy’s Law came knocking at the door. In the form of a rock the perfect size to not be seen from the drivers side of the van, but large enough to break all sorts of sensitive electronics, tubes, and whatever else at the vehicles base. A loud crack later, and we were stuck in 1st gear, limited to just above the speed of a jog, leaking fluid from a handful of different holes. The lesson of Iceland is always that it is still wild and rugged, in addition to being beautiful, and it demands respect. If respect isn’t given, you’ll be forced to reap the consequences.

A phone call to one of the photographer’s daughter’s boyfriend later, our strange version of phone-a-mechanic had cleared us to at least get back to the hotel, albeit at the pace of a lethargic, arthritic tortoise. Our main worry was overheating as a result of losing our coolant (the leaking liquid mentioned before), and potentially bricking the engine, certainly a more expensive repair than the few tubes that were initially broken.

Thankfully I was able to assuage the fears of our guides, as I have killed not one, not two, but three vehicles in my short life as a driver from that very issue (if your engine starts smoking white, it’s already too late). I knew there was no way we were overheating in the balmy 5 degree Celsius (40 Fahrenheit) weather we were experiencing, and I sat back to enjoy the methodical carnival train ride we were on for the next hour and a half.

Never has there been a better poster child for insurance on your rental car than us, as we limped back into the hotel’s parking lot near 2 in the morning and went to bed. For our guide and the unfortunate driver of the van, Greg, though, a journey had only just begun. As I was peacefully sleeping after an eventful day, Greg drove the van to Húsavík, almost an hour and a half away at the pace he was required to drive at, arriving to the lone auto shop just as they opened at 8 in the morning. A quick inspection and report that basically said, “What the hell did you do to this thing,” later, the insurance claim was filed, and a truck was sent from Reykjavik carrying our replacement van. The ETA: 8 hours.

Our main guide Brendan picked Greg up, and back at the hotel we split into two groups: The group led by Greg that would stay at the hotel, relaxing and editing photos, and the group led by Brendan who would continue on to the next night’s camping spot. I joined Brendan’s group, and off we went, deeper into the next stage of our trip: The Eastfjords.

Davy jones’ signature

“Ever gazed upon the green flash, Master Gibbs?”

“I reckon I seen my fair share. Happens on rare occasion. The last glimpse of sunset, a green flash shoots up into the sky. Some go their whole lives without ever seeing it. Some claim to have seen it who ain’t. And some say—”

“It signals when a soul comes back to this world from the dead.“

―Hector Barbossa, Joshamee Gibbs and Pintel

I’ve always loved the ocean. From faint flashes of memory as a child seeing the Atlantic and Pacific for the first time, to today where every time I fly international I choose the window seat – just so I can watch the ocean as we pass over. There’s something deeply beautiful about it. A feeling of solidarity with your ancestors who stood on shores and beaches and also wondered what adventures awaited them on the other side of the unknown.

After a three hour drive and a stop at the cutest coffee shop in an expanse of nothing, we arrived at Borgarfjarðarhöfn, land of the Puffins, on the Eastern coast. Thousands of Puffins nest here each year, and it was peak season. We arrived at the exact perfect time as well, just before sunset when the fish start to get more active – and the Puffins go out to feed. Straight from a Disney movie, we were surrounded by Puffins. We spent the next 5 hours around and among these amazing little birds. Watched them feed, fight other birds, and enjoyed the scene around us. But as the title of this section suggests, tonight’s sunset would be one to never forget.

I’m a big fan of the Pirates of the Caribbean movies (the first three, anyway), so I wasn’t going to let this opportunity pass by without adding that quote at the top of this section from Barbossa. I’m sure you’ve already guessed what’s coming, but we were treated to one of Mother Nature’s rarest and magical surprises: The Green Flash.

There’s a lot of science around when and where and why it occurs (which I’ve all read because I’m a wealth of surface-level knowledge), but it’s much more fun to think of it as the lore of old, as the old English proverb says, “Glimpse you ere the green ray, Count the morrow a fine day.“

Considering at this time it was a few minutes to midnight, I took it as a sign of the wonderful evening we still had ahead of us, and the incredible days still to come.

Photo by Dan Mayer

clouds that move like water

The Eastfjords will require their own visit some day. The long, winding roads through the fjords and mountains made for some of the best views of the entire trip, but Vik and Vestrahorn were calling our names. As we entered this stage of our journey, there was a sudden uptick in the amount of people we were seeing. We had been spoiled for the last week, having been in extremely rural areas for the duration so far. But as we entered the south coast of Iceland, the tourists started to appear en masse.

Another area we had been extremely lucky in was weather. Iceland is notorious for it’s summer weather – torrential rain and hurricane wind gusts are the norm. Since we had set off from Reykjavik, though, there had been only a handful of hours of light drizzle, mostly while we were driving, and soft breezes everywhere we went. As with Dettifoss, the rock, and Murphy’s Law, though, we were about to be reminded what Iceland is capable of.

As we worked our way south, thick, dark clouds began to roll in from the Pacific. Low on the horizon, they swallowed us up and plunged us into the darkest environment we’d seen since we had landed in Reykjavik. We pulled up to Vestrahorn, the two proud peaks and top 2/3s of the mountain hidden by the clouds. I had never seen black sand beaches before, and I eagerly left the safety and warmth of the van to explore this alien landscape – only to immediately be buffeted by winds so strong I could hardly breathe. There would be no photography until those winds died down, and we took refuge inside our vehicles to wait out the storm.

Growing up at the base of the Rockies, I am very familiar with the statement, “Don’t like the weather, wait a few hours!” A statement so common to anyone living near mountains you can almost vividly see the minion meme your grandparents shared on Facebook with it.

With that oh-so-common affirmation fresh on my mind, I was witness to the might of the Gulf Stream. The clouds that had covered us in totality not two hours before, were boiling. As we watched our forecasts and followed where the sun would be if we could see it, the dark, angry clouds above us were literally churning like the waves a few dozen meters beneath them. They slammed into Vestrahorn, flowing over the top of the cliffs and out of sight.

About an hour after we arrived, the first glimpse of sky showed itself on the horizon, moving quickly toward us. Like a god peeling back the fabric of reality and revealing our small selves to the sky above, the might of Vestrahorn came fully into view.

Photographer Chris Burkard once told me that the difference between an amateur and a professional photographer is how they will treat a location. The amateur will set up the epic, incredible shot and wait as long as they can, afraid to miss the perfect lighting and conditions, and will walk away with an incredible photo. The professional will take the same photo, and maybe won’t get it at the exact perfect time, but will then move all through a location looking for every angle, every opportunity for something that no one else has seen. While the amateur may walk away with 1 otherworldly image, the professional will have dozens of equally incredible images, and the story of taking them all.

That’s all to say that as soon as the wind died with the clouds, we were out of the van and finding every angle we could to tell the story of what we had just seen. Our patience rewarded, some of my favorites images I’ve ever taken were made.

a church on the hill

We left Vestrahorn and the quaint little town of Höfn to head to Vik and the Diamond Beach. Vik is a much more visited city than any we had been to since leaving Reykjavik, despite being one main street and a singular (well stocked) grocery store. Standing proudly above the town is Vik’s main attraction, a small white church with a red roof that you can find in any Icelandic town (they’re literally everywhere, they must have gotten a bulk discount or something). The churches you’ll generally find, though, are not nearly as picturesque as Vik’s, sitting proudly atop the central hill.

Vik is also right on the coast, and beautiful sea stacks nearby make for a wonderful background to the frame. You can also get right up next to the sea stacks, and taking photos from Hálsanefshellir Cave is something I’d highly recommend. Just watch out for the sneaker waves, quick moving waves that don’t seem threatening that pull far too many tourists out to sea each year.

On a happier note, gorgeous fields of lupines and other flowers surround Vik’s church. Even if you aren’t a photographer, taking a stroll through the hills surrounded by purples, yellows, and oranges is something you absolutely have to make time for.

the yoda cave

This is a tiny little section that absolutely deserves its place here. It’s actual name is Gígjagjá, and it barely needs an introduction, as you can see below.

Kvernufoss

As we approached the last leg of the trip we stopped at Kvernufoss, Skógafoss’ lesser known neighbor. While Skógafoss is certainly majestic, impressive, and striking, Kvernufoss is nestled deeper into the cliffs, but boasts a short, idyllic nature walk as you approach. While most waterfalls in Iceland you can drive right up to, Kvernufoss is 1.5 km (1 mile) walk down a lovely unpaved path right next to the river Kvernufoss feeds into. Hundreds of people visit Skógafoss (for good reason), but we were sharing Kvernufoss with maybe a half dozen other adventurers.

the last waterfall

When I talked about Vestrahorn, I had to mention how windy it was. And don’t get me wrong, up to that point those had been the strongest winds I had ever felt. Imagine my surprise as we then found ourselves being blown over at the last waterfall of the trip on our last day of being together: The Mighty Haifoss and it’s smaller neighbor, Granni (no, literally). Haifoss was the farthest we had been in the interior of Iceland, about an hour and a half away from Selfoss, the largest city south of Reykjavik.

Up to that point (and so far since), I’ve never experienced winds that will keep you standing while you lean at impossible angles. I’d seen videos and photos of people doing such things in places like Florida during hurricanes, but to experience gusts that strong was an experience unto itself.

The best angles to photograph Haifoss from are also right next to the edge of the canyon it has spent the last however long carving out. 120 meters from top to bottom, it is not something you’d have fun falling from. Hilariously obtuse as we photographers are about very recognizable danger, we took some incredible photographs. Let’s just not talk about how close we actually were. Besides, the wind was pushing us backward, making it completely safe… right?

a new perspective

Haifoss and the return to Reykjavik marked the end of the 12 of us touring Iceland together. We had successfully made it entirely around the country with only one broken van as a casualty. It was a trip of a lifetime, spent with some incredible people, having unbelievable experiences. While I do love traveling alone, half a trip is who you’re with.

I, however, still had two more days in Reykjavik. Due to some not-so-great planning on my part (don’t book hotels without knowing that the airport is 40 minutes away from your destination, people), I spent the first day on my own traveling back and forth from Reykjavik to my AirBnB in Keflavik, and back to Reykjavik for a memento of the trip to be inked into my shoulder. Despite the session only being 2-ish hours, total time with travel included made for a 10 hour journey to Narnia and back.

But we still weren’t done with the wonderful Keflavik Airport bus system, and the next morning I was up at 5am to meet my friend from the trip Martin Godwyn, and join him on what would ultimately become my favorite experience of the entire two weeks.

You see, I love to fly as much if not more than I love the Ocean. My flying experience, however, has been limited to large Boeing and AirBus jets from major international Airports (except for one trip in a tiny helicopter in Alaska). So getting into a tiny, four seat (really three), bright red Cessna with Martin and Halldor Jonsson as our pilot was significantly outside my comfort zone.

I like to read as much as I like to take photos and travel. The development of my ADHD in adulthood has made it difficult for me to sit down and read a paper book, which means I’m mostly relegated to audiobooks (which I love). One of my favorite print books and a prized gift from my mom one Christmas is Chris Burkard’s At Glaciers End. It’s a documentation of Iceland’s glacial rivers from the skies, and now a memory of the pilot Chris went with for most of the photos, the late Heraldur Diego, known as the Volcano Pilot, and one of Halldor’s best friends.

The book is one of my favorite possessions, and it sits in my office where I see it every day when I walk in. It’s the perfect example of seeing things in a different perspective, and it’s something I’ve always wanted to do.

That all lasted up until we were in the air and Iceland’s ever-present wind started roaring. While there’s nothing as freeing as controlling your own life, there’s also nothing quite as disturbing as feeling your plane fishtail while you’re in the air.

Jokes aside, it was a transcendent experience that I cannot wait to have again. As we flew over Iceland’s southwestern coast, I really began to appreciate the landscape I had just spent two weeks on the ground of. The long, glacier-carved plains that extend from coast to mountain, the small buildings standing in a hostile environment that the Vikings of old and their ancestors anew build and remain out of sheer tenacity and stubbornness, the mountain range that marks the beginning of Iceland’s interior and the ferocious volcanoes that lie within, and the rivers that pour from that same interior, carrying with them the glacial and mineral deposits that create their beauty out to the waiting ocean.

There’s not many people who have ever seen Iceland from above, especially at this mid range not as fast or as high as the planes we are used to. This was much more intimate, a few hundred meters above the ground, at the mercy of the wind and the weather. It was the perfect capstone to two weeks in a new place and a new experience. Under the midnight sun with new friends in new places,

Under the midnight sun, I found a new perspective.

Thanks for reading,

Brax

If you’ve made it this far, I’m incredibly grateful for you sticking around. I mostly write these articles for myself to remember what an incredible experience I was lucky enough to have. As a reward for making it to the bottom, all I can really offer is my thanks and a link to the gallery where I keep all the photos I kept from the trip. I hope you enjoy!